Pressed Concrete vs. Steel Piers

Both are used all over North Texas and both work when they are installed properly. The short answer: concrete cylinders are the common choice for typical residential slabs, and steel is chosen where deeper driving or heavier loads are involved.

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  • Slab & Pier and Beam
  • Residential & Commercial

Side by Side

What to comparePressed concrete piersSteel piers
What it isShort concrete cylinders pressed into the ground in a stack using the weight of the houseSections of steel pipe driven in the same way, joined as they go down
Typical useEveryday residential slab and perimeter work on ordinary lotsHeavier structures, deeper fill, and sites where refusal is a long way down
Depth reachedDriven until resistance is adequate; usually shallower than steel on the same lotGenerally capable of going deeper through soft or filled soil
Cost per pointNormally the lower-cost option, which is why it is used most oftenNormally more per pier, so it is specified where it is justified
Site disturbanceHoles at each location, backfilled afterward; heavier equipment for interior workSimilar excavation, sometimes smaller holes for the same depth
What to askHow the stack is aligned and what happens if a cylinder goes off linePipe size and wall thickness, and how the sections are joined

When Pressed Concrete Usually Suits

For a standard single-story brick house on a slab, on a lot with reasonable soil and no unusual fill, pressed concrete cylinders are the workhorse of the industry here. They are proven, widely installed, and cost less per support point, which matters when a house needs a dozen or more of them along one elevation.

They are a good fit where the load is moderate and the driving depth needed is achievable. Plenty of Arlington, Pantego and mid-cities houses from the 1960s through the 1980s are supported this way. See slab foundation repair for how the work is sequenced.

When Steel Is Worth Discussing

Steel comes into its own where the crew has to get past a lot of soft ground before hitting something reliable. Cut-and-fill building pads, old creek bottoms and made ground are the usual reasons. It is also the sensible discussion for a two-story house, a masonry chimney or a commercial structure where the load at each point is higher.

It normally costs more per pier, so the fair question to a contractor is not "which is better" but "why this one, here, on my lot". A straight answer referencing your soil, your loads and what the crew expects to hit is a good sign. See how piers are installed and commercial foundation repair for the heavier end of the work.

Neither type stops the clay from moving. Both transfer load to steadier ground. Pairing either one with drainage correction and root barriers is what keeps the problem from coming back.

Questions for the Inspection

Why this pier type here?

Ask for the reasoning in terms of your soil, your loads and the access, not a general preference.

How is depth decided?

Depth is judged on site as each pier meets resistance. Ask what happens, and what it costs, if the crew has to go further than expected.

What does the guarantee say?

Ask for the written terms: what is covered, for how long, what voids it and whether it passes to a future owner.

What is not included?

Sheetrock, brick pointing, door adjustment, flooring and landscaping are often excluded. Get that in writing before work starts.

Get the pier question answered for your house

Call to be connected with a provider who can explain which type suits your lot. Start with an inspection.

Call for Service: (817) 391-2533