Why this pier type here?
Ask for the reasoning in terms of your soil, your loads and the access, not a general preference.
Both are used all over North Texas and both work when they are installed properly. The short answer: concrete cylinders are the common choice for typical residential slabs, and steel is chosen where deeper driving or heavier loads are involved.
| What to compare | Pressed concrete piers | Steel piers |
|---|---|---|
| What it is | Short concrete cylinders pressed into the ground in a stack using the weight of the house | Sections of steel pipe driven in the same way, joined as they go down |
| Typical use | Everyday residential slab and perimeter work on ordinary lots | Heavier structures, deeper fill, and sites where refusal is a long way down |
| Depth reached | Driven until resistance is adequate; usually shallower than steel on the same lot | Generally capable of going deeper through soft or filled soil |
| Cost per point | Normally the lower-cost option, which is why it is used most often | Normally more per pier, so it is specified where it is justified |
| Site disturbance | Holes at each location, backfilled afterward; heavier equipment for interior work | Similar excavation, sometimes smaller holes for the same depth |
| What to ask | How the stack is aligned and what happens if a cylinder goes off line | Pipe size and wall thickness, and how the sections are joined |
For a standard single-story brick house on a slab, on a lot with reasonable soil and no unusual fill, pressed concrete cylinders are the workhorse of the industry here. They are proven, widely installed, and cost less per support point, which matters when a house needs a dozen or more of them along one elevation.
They are a good fit where the load is moderate and the driving depth needed is achievable. Plenty of Arlington, Pantego and mid-cities houses from the 1960s through the 1980s are supported this way. See slab foundation repair for how the work is sequenced.
Steel comes into its own where the crew has to get past a lot of soft ground before hitting something reliable. Cut-and-fill building pads, old creek bottoms and made ground are the usual reasons. It is also the sensible discussion for a two-story house, a masonry chimney or a commercial structure where the load at each point is higher.
It normally costs more per pier, so the fair question to a contractor is not "which is better" but "why this one, here, on my lot". A straight answer referencing your soil, your loads and what the crew expects to hit is a good sign. See how piers are installed and commercial foundation repair for the heavier end of the work.
Neither type stops the clay from moving. Both transfer load to steadier ground. Pairing either one with drainage correction and root barriers is what keeps the problem from coming back.
Ask for the reasoning in terms of your soil, your loads and the access, not a general preference.
Depth is judged on site as each pier meets resistance. Ask what happens, and what it costs, if the crew has to go further than expected.
Ask for the written terms: what is covered, for how long, what voids it and whether it passes to a future owner.
Sheetrock, brick pointing, door adjustment, flooring and landscaping are often excluded. Get that in writing before work starts.
Call to be connected with a provider who can explain which type suits your lot. Start with an inspection.